Lundu, Sarawak

Heaven of Borneo

View from the campsite


There is a small coastal town called Sematan in the northwest of Lundu. We take the local bus for RM4 which is currently less than 1€. We each have dua besar pinggu (=2 big plates) of food at Sematan. With full bellies we embark on a boat with a guy called Apek (110RM incl. return). At noon the three of us arrive at Tanjung Datu National Park.

After a snack and a short siesta we climb up the short trail to the view point.


My travel mates are Carla, a german dreaddy who just came from Down Under and Maarten, a belgian vegetarian veterinarian who came straight from India to the construction site at Lundu Beach Resort. I met them both at Lundu and I like’em. Maarten informs us that the last part of the road from Sematan to Teluk Melano (a quiet jungle village) is going to be built soon.


Once the last stretch of tar will be plastered many visitors will be able to drive there; until then, Teluk Melano is only to be reached by boat – or on foot, thru the jungellll 😀 This means we gonna hike more or less untrodden trails… trails that might soon become pathways and roads.


Ahhh… how we enjoy swimming in cystal-clear water and have a rest at the beach campsite near National Park HQ


I had a good night’s sleep in the hammock… my friends too, well more or less; with a deafening BOnKk!! fruits crash like stones on the metal roof of their hut; sure enough, the squirrels have their fun with those bipeds down there below the trees.


A real challenge for tree huggers


Next morning we walk through the jungle on astonishingly beautiful trails and spot small geckos and big lizards, branchiating monkeys, huge colourful butterflies, a snake that scurries away into the thickets… it’s so amazing to walk through this (almost) pristine rainforest.


Breathe. Just take this in for a moment. Breathe. Smell the ocean breeze. Breathe.


Some friends also do walks during the night with flash lights to discover nocturnal creatures and savour a magnificent sunrise…


After having spent two sunshiny days & nights under the stars in this national park it becomes perfectly clear why they call this place ‘Heaven of Borneo’.


Before heading back to mainland (it feels so much like we been on an island!!) Before we return to Sematan by boat, we trek through the jungle with enough water, bags and hammock to Teluk Melano where all the boats are leaving from every morning. This means, in effect, hiking 3.7 kilometers up down up down, crossing rivers, passing beautiful beaches, spotting wild animals but no hornbills, sorry Maarten… eventually arriving soaking sweaty and happy to stay for a night at Fanorama Homestay.


A super friendly family homestay in a small & quiet village. Helpful in every way. Since we were volunteers at Project Orangutan they charged us less than usual. Plus, they made sure we get a boat next morning. Terima kasih, Nur!


All in all we stay 3 nights at Tanjung Datu and then, on Monday morning, we take a boat back to Sematan to start our hitchhiking trip towards Sabah.


Hitchhiking back to Lundu is really a piece of cake. Cars even bother to stop and explain to us why they can’t take us right now. After two hours we are back in Lundu. We pack our backpacks and give essential instructions to the newly arrived supervisor. Get some goodies at the local market. Hitchhiking to Kuching takes us only another two hours. People are amazingly friendly and helpful. More about our hitchhiking adventures in the upcoming post. Stay tuned ^_^


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